Recipe for a Coffeepot Cosy

Thursday, August 16, 2007
What do you knit for someone who either has everything, or who doesn't wear knitwear (I know, right? But they do exist!)? You knit them something they never knew they needed and can be shamed into "using" - at least when you come to visit.

Thus was born what is euphemistically known in my household as The World's Ugliest Coffeepot Cosy. It's not really all that bad - it's just largely constructed from stash kitchen cotton so is a bit odd in coloring. It probably would look fine if not so fractured in the middle...

Because everyone's coffeepot is different, I'll give you the formula that I used to make this wacky thing, and then you can make one to your own pot. This is a more advanced pattern than I usually post, but may appeal to the more adventurous of you. Please let me know if you knit it - and post a picture to your blog (and link back here!)

Measurements needed:
C = Circumference of pot at largest point.
H = Maximum height of pot.
SB = Height from table to bottom of spout (where it joins with the pot body)
ST = Height from table to top of spout (where it joins with the pot body)
HB = Height from table to bottom of handle (where it joins with the pot body)
HT = Height from table to top of handle (where it joins with the pot body)
G = Gauge as stitches per inch
S = C X G (decrease to make divisible by 4) = number of cast on stitches

Yarn: DO NOT USE ACRYLIC - IT WILL MELT. I used Sugar 'N Cream Cottons, various colors (approx. 1 skein), because the recipient is horribly allergic to wool (worse than me!). As long as your fiber is heatsafe you'll be fine with any worsted weight yarn.
Needles: I used US 8 (5.0mm) 16inch circular needles. The idea is to have a fairly supple gauge without it being too loose. It's your preference.

Gauge: CRITICAL.
In 2x2 rib stitch (K2; P2), knit a gauge swatch that is of more than normally generous proportions. Do not block fully; instead, count your gauge with the fabric slightly stretched (this is measurement G).

Instructions:
Multiply G by C. Decrease slightly until you have a number that is divisible by 4 (this is S). Cast on this number of stitches, place marker, and join for knitting in the round.

1. Begin working 2x2 rib stitch in the round, until cloth is SB+0.5" (1cm) long. This is the split for the spout, hereafter called the "spout side".

2. At this point you will stop knitting in the round and start working flat. Simply do this by turning the work at the stitch marker and working back across stitches instead of continuing in circles. Work in pattern until cloth is HB+0.5" (1cm) long. This is the split for the handle, hereafter called the "handle side".

3. At this point you will start working two strips of cloth. Work in pattern across half of your width (for 1/2 of S), turn, and work back across wrong side (in pattern). You'll have to start a new ball of yarn for the opposite side. Work each side until they are ST+0.5" (1cm) long.

4. Join the two sides together at the spout side. Work in pattern until cloth is HT+0.5" (1cm) long.

5. Join to knit in the round, keeping to pattern. You will now have a cylinder with two slit holes in it; one smallish one for the spout and one larger one for the handle. Work until cloth is H+2" (5cm) long.

6. Work eyelet round: (K1; K2Tog; YO twice; SSK; K1; P2) repeat to end. Depending on your number of stitches, you may end with a double YO and have to do the SSK with the first stitch of the next round. It's okay; it won't show.
Next round: (K2 (or K1; see above); K into front and back of double yarnover; K2; P2) around.

7: Ruffle: Work in pattern for approx. 1in (2.5cm). Bind off in pattern.

8: Cord: Work 3 stitch I-cord for 30" (75cm). Bind off.

9: Weave in ends. Weave I-cord through eyelets.


Notes: Your coffeepot may have a spout that is higher at the base than your handle. If that is the case, reverse the splits in steps 1 & 2.

If you choose to do striping, may I suggest at least 3 rows per color - this way when you weave in the ends they won't all be on top of each other, but rather at opposite ends of the cloth. Much neater and easier.

This is a fairly loose cosy, in the end, because of the hole for the handle. If you wish it to be tighter, cast on about 10%-20% fewer stitches than are called for here. That will make it slightly harder to get on and off!

5 comments:

  • S/V Maeve

    This is certainly one of a kind! Remind me about the significance of the colors... Celtic green, yellow for the sun, blue for the sea, what else?

  • KT

    Green = Ireland (also boat hull)
    White = Clouds (also boat sails)
    Yellow = Sun
    "Westport" (blue/white/brown variegated) = Shoreline (water/sand/earth)
    Purple = Royalty
    "Neptune" (blues & greens variegated) = Water
    Blue = Sky

    And then back to white, then green.

  • I think your colors are striking and beautiful! I just stumbled on your blog site and have spent quite an enjoyable morning looking at your work - you're quite the knitter, and quite the blogger too. Love your tea cozy!
    Bonnie Lacey
    LaGrange Kentucky
    advanced beginner knitter

  • Jere

    I really like your cozy. It's very adaptable. I have granite counters, which are a heat sink. Plus, microwaving leaves bowls too hot to pick up. So I want to make cozies for my bowls, too. But I need bottoms!

    Do you have a pattern for circular bottoms?

    I knitted an felted a tea cozy for my coffee pot and put it on upside down.

  • I love this pattern. I made mine with stripes in the colors of my coffee pot and china. Instead of making a sack with pull string, I decreased stitches to make a rounded top, then added all sorts of flowers on the top. It reminds me of a gaily dressed lady of a certain age in her big flowered hat. It makes me laugh!

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